A few words about the basics of BLAKE Construction footwear:
Blake construction shoes review
Blake-constructed shoes are relatively simple and, with proper care, durable.
The process involves stretching and shaping the upper on a last and securing it to the insole with metal tacks (nails) or glue.
After attaching the welt, filling, and sole, the last is removed, and the insole along with the nailed upper is stitched to the outsole.
Details can be seen in the attached diagram. This type of construction is one of the oldest methods of shoe-making, but during the era of handcrafted production, it was not very popular due to the significant difficulty in 'reaching' the toe of the shoe to perform the stitching.
One of the drawbacks of this construction is its relatively low durability, as the main structural element, the seam, is highly exposed to mechanical damage and wear. Its damage practically leads to the disintegration of the entire structure. For this reason, customers often preferred shoes made using the welted system, which, although more complicated, offered greater durability because its structural seam was protected from damage. Additionally, welted shoes were much easier to repair; replacing the sole did not cause the shoe to 'fall apart.'
However, the simplicity of the Blake construction proved to be its greatest advantage as it allowed for mechanization. Blake construction was the first to be produced using machines. In 1858, Gordon McKay, an American violinist working as an engineer on the railroad, bought a patent for a sole-stitching machine from shoemaker-inventor Lyman Blake for $70,000. Shortly after, the Civil War broke out, and McKay received a huge order for boots from the army. Overnight, he became a shoe industry mogul. He began manufacturing machines and leasing them, earning profits from every pair of shoes produced using them. His company eventually became the largest corporation in the world producing machines and materials for the footwear industry, which still exists today under the name USM (United Shoe Machinery).
Blake stitching - very popular shoe construction method
Returning to Blake-constructed shoes, due to their relatively low cost, they became the most popular type of footwear. Even the mechanization of welted shoe production (Goodyear Welted) did not change this trend – as they say, 'price works wonders.' In recent times, the Blake system has become very popular in luxury Italian men’s shoes. This is because its simple construction allows for the production of very delicate, refined shoes, giving an impression of extraordinary lightness, something that is not achievable with traditional welted construction. Very often, the construction seam is protected by attaching a thin rubber outsole, significantly extending the lifespan of the shoes. The durability of Blake-constructed shoes has also increased, thanks to advances in bonding technology, allowing the shoes to remain wearable and repairable even after the construction seam is worn down."
Post comments (0)
