All high-quality shoes require regular maintenance to ensure their longevity. Every two weeks and always after any dirt accumulation, they should be cleaned, conditioned and polished with high-quality wax polish, followed by buffing with a specialized brush, preferably made of horsehair.
Just 10 minutes of care will not only enhance their appearance but also make them more resistant to moisture.
Shoe care involves more than just polishing. It's essential to adhere to a few principles. Shoes need a break after a day of wear: at least one or two days of rest, ideally with shoe trees inside, are necessary. When putting on shoes, using a shoehorn is important to protect the heel from damage. Equally crucial is paying attention to selecting the right size and shape of the last, ensuring not only comfort but also longevity. If shoes are too long or too wide, deep creases will quickly form.
Cleaning Shoes
Before applying any shoe care products, shoes should be stripped of laces and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Start by brushing the upper leather and sole with a brush. If the shoes were primarily worn in an office environment, this step is often sufficient. For more substantial dirt buildup, wiping the leather with a damp cotton cloth is recommended. This helps remove any stubborn dust particles that could damage the leather and allows for better absorption of the nutrients in the care products.
Applying Shoe Cream
Apply a thin layer of cream to the leather using a specialized brush (applicator) or cloth. Spread it evenly over the entire surface with the cloth. Wait approximately 10 minutes before buffing with a horsehair brush. Shoe cream complements the action of wax polish. Unlike wax polish, it does not contain hard palm waxes (such as carnauba wax) but mainly consists of oils, fats, soft waxes (beeswax), and pigments. It nourishes the leather and enhances its color.
Applying Wax Polish
The best product for leather care is wax polish containing palm and beeswax, based on a solvent, typically balsamic turpentine oil. It was invented and perfected in the early twentieth century. In later years, cheaper alternatives began to emerge, with products in plastic tubes replacing turpentine oil with water in their composition. While this reduced costs, it also had a negative impact on the product's effectiveness on leather. Turpentine oil primarily prevents the formation of a crust on the leather when multiple layers of wax are applied. This, of course, also significantly affects the leather's breathability. It's easier to dose the amount of wax to create an invisible, very thin layer on the leather, providing protection against moisture, chemical and mechanical factors, and refreshing the color.
Buffing with a Horsehair Brush
Conservation of New Shoes
Immediately after purchasing new shoes, they should be protected with wax polish. After removing the laces, apply a thin layer of wax to the leather, paying attention to hard-to-reach areas such as the space between the edge of the sole and the upper. A special frame brush or a soft-bristled toothbrush is best suited for this task. After at least half an hour, polishing can begin. If a high shine is desired, another layer of polish can be applied, left for several hours or even overnight, and then buffed. It is essential to avoid moisture, especially soaking the leather sole, during the initial period.