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Footwear Glossary

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Footwear Glossary

Calfskin

A type of delicate calf leather used for making shoes.

Brogues

Stylish shoes featuring perforations, or patterns made of small holes in the leather. The toe is decorated with a delicate rosette design, while the upper has wing-shaped perforations and stitching (full brogues). There are three types of brogues: full brogues, semi (half) brogues, and quarter brogues. Brogues can be found in both derby and oxford styles.

 

 
Cap Toe
 
Refers to a shoe with a seam at the front, separating the toe cap from the rest of the shoe. A classic Cap Toe is an Oxford (with a closed lacing system) without perforations. However, modern variations often feature perforations on the toe and an open lacing system.
 
Derby
 
Traditional men’s shoes, also known as Blucher (in the USA). The distinctive feature of a Derby shoe is the open lacing system. The sides of the shoe with eyelets for laces are sewn on top of the vamp (the part of the shoe that covers the toes and instep). The quarters make up the back and sides of the upper and have the eyelets for the laces.
 
Goodyear Welted 
 
 

The "Goodyear welt" method of shoe construction involves a specific way of joining the shoe upper to the sole, ensuring durability and comfort. The insole (the shoe’s internal part) is attached to a strip of leather called the welt. In the next step, the sole is stitched to the welt. This construction allows for the sole to be replaced multiple times, greatly extending the life of the shoe. The "Goodyear welt" method is a hallmark of high-quality formal and business shoes. The space created by the welt is usually filled with a layer of cork, which allows the insole to mold perfectly to the shape of the foot during the first few months of wear, providing cushioning and thermal insulation.


Loafers

Slip-on casual shoes without laces or a heel, made from soft, single-piece leather with a "U" shaped seam on the upper. Due to their thin sole, they are not designed for long walks.

 
 

Monk
 
 
Monkstrap, Monk shoes – shoes with one or two buckles instead of laces.
 
Oxford
 

 

Traditional men's shoes featuring a closed lacing system, meaning that the two side sections with eyelets are sewn under the vamp. Oxfords are considered the most elegant type of shoe.

Whole-cut 
 
 
 

Shoes with the upper made from a single piece of leather, without any seams or decorations like perforations. Wholecut shoes belong to the oxford category.

 

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