Which shoe construction method is the best?

There are many shoe construction methods and the average customer visiting our website, www.loveclassicshoes.com, might feel overwhelmed reading the descriptions, especially when browsing the stitching methods section. While going through terms like Goodyear welted, Bologna or Blake, a question often arises: which method is the best, and which should I choose for myself? In this post, we’ll try to answer this question without delving into technical details.

What are the four main shoe construction methods and what are their advantages and disadvantages?

1. Goodyear Welted Construction

Known since the early 19th century but patented by Charles Goodyear Jr. in 1873, this method is considered the most noble, best, and most challenging way to make footwear. For those interested in technical details, we refer you to our other blog posts and YouTube channel. In brief, this method involves stitching a sole made up of three layers to the upper with a special leather welt.

Advantages of this method include: :

- Durability: Shoes made with this method can last for decades with proper care.
- Resoleability: This is the only method that allows for replacing the sole with a new one.
- Comfort: Once broken in, Goodyear welted shoes become very comfortable to wear.

Disadvantages include:

- Cost: Due to the complex construction process, the prices of shoes made with this method are higher than those made with simpler methods.
- Long break-in period: Shoes made with the Goodyear welted method can take several days to break in, with some shoemaking manuals even suggesting up to three months. These shoes are not ready for long walks immediately after purchase.
- Weight: Due to the sole, Goodyear welted shoes are slightly heavier and stiffer than those made with other methods. However, this might be seen as an advantage for those familiar with the nuances of shoemaking.

The Goodyear welted method combines high durability and comfort, making it suitable for most shoe models. However, it’s not ideal for shoes where softness is a priority (like espadrilles, driving mocs or sneakers).

2. Norwegian Construction

Used since the mid-19th century in Scandinavia for making shoes for forestry workers, this method is essentially an advanced Goodyear welted system and is one of the most complex and challenging methods for shoe construction. This method uses an additional, third structural seam for extra sealing of the upper. Its advantages and disadvantages are similar to those of the Goodyear welted method, with the following exceptions:

- Water resistance: Shoes made with the Norwegian method are practically waterproof.
- Increased durability: These shoes are even more durable than those made with the Goodyear welted method.
- Higher cost: Due to the very complex sewing process, they may be more expensive than shoes made with the Goodyear welted method.

The Norwegian method is an excellent choice for those who demand reliability and near-indestructibility from their shoes (within reason, of course).

3. Blake Stitch Construction

This is a relatively simple shoe construction method that involves stitching the sole directly to the upper using two seams. Contrary to what one might think, the absence of a welt (characteristic of Goodyear welted construction) means that Blake-stitched shoes have significant advantages:

- Flexibility: Shoes made using this method are softer and adapt to the foot more quickly.
- Lower cost: They are generally less expensive due to a faster and less complex construction process.

Of course, Blake-stitched shoes are less durable than Goodyear welted shoes, but their lifespan is still mucz longer than that of glued mass-market shoes. They are an excellent choice for those looking for soft summer footwear.

4. Bologna Construction

This method is essentially an advanced Blake system. In short, it involves sewing a soft piece of leather (called a "glove" or, in Italian, "sacchetto") into the front part of the upper, which wraps around the foot like a glove around a hand. A seam is then added to the shoe’s sole, making the shoes very flexible and allowing them to move more naturally with the foot. The result is an ultra-soft and comfortable shoe. The advantages of the Bologna method include:

- Exceptional softness and flexibility
- Immediate adaptation to the foot

The disadvantages include a higher price compared to the Blake system, as the Bologna method is very time-consuming and technically advanced.

This method offers slipper-like comfort, so if you are looking for ultra-comfortable shoes, nothing better can be created. However, it's worth remembering that it is less durable than the Goodyear welted method.

So, which shoe construction method is the best?

Can we determine which method is the best based on the above overview? At first glance, it seems the Norwegian method might be the best — but is it really? Of course, when used for making mountain or winter shoes, this method results in nearly perfect footwear. But on the other hand, can anyone imagine using this method to make soft, summer loafers? It would be like producing a sports convertible with a steel frame from an off-road vehicle. On the other hand, if we need casual shoes for everyday wear in the summer, there isn't always a need to buy shoes made with advanced methods like Goodyear welted or Bologna — sometimes the simple Blake system will do the job perfectly.

Much also depends on personal preferences. Those expecting light, very soft shoes with thin soles might be disappointed with the Goodyear welted system, while those who expect durability and are willing to spend time and sacrifice some initial comfort to break in and perfectly fit their shoes will be delighted with the Goodyear welted method. Finally, those who seek exceptional comfort almost immediately will find nothing beats the Bologna method but might initially be disappointed with the stiffness of the Goodyear welted system.

In short, each method has its advantages and is intended for different purposes. This is the goal of Klasyczne Buty — we offer shoes made with all four methods, so our customers can choose the optimal one for their preferences and needs.

Personally, we have shoes made using the Norwegian, Goodyear welted (the most), Blake, and Bologna methods, and we are happy with each pair. In our opinion, it's worth having at least one pair of each method to experience their benefits for yourself. We invite you to our shops, where you can try on shoes made using different methods and choose the ones that suit you best.

Below, from left to right, are models made using the Norwegian, Goodyear welted, Blake, and Bologna methods.

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