Guide to Shoemaker's Lasts

A last is a wooden form on which the leather upper of a shoe is shaped. It's one of the most important elements in the shoe-making process. Thanks to the last, shoes acquire a beautiful and dynamic shape, allowing for a perfect fit to the shape of the foot.

Each brand available at Classic Shoes offers its own lasts, which come in various shapes designed for different types of feet (slender, wide, with high or low arches). This allows us to precisely tailor shoes to your needs, primarily to the shape of your feet, by selecting a last that best corresponds to the shape of your feet.

Creating a last is a very laborious and demanding process, which must effectively combine two worlds: orthopedic knowledge and understanding of human foot anatomy, with good taste and artistic skill.

Below, we present our original description of lasts, which will make it easier for you to navigate through our range of handmade shoes.

 

 

 

BERWICK

 

HO156 Last

 

 

 

 

One of the most versatile lasts from the Berwick workshop. It's characterized by a wide width at the ball of the foot, high instep, and slightly elongated shape, which allows maintaining high comfort in the toes. The toe shape resembles an almond. Those with slightly slimmer feet and medium arches may choose a size half smaller than usual.

HO177 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last with an elongated line, designed for slender feet and medium arches. It has a slightly more pronounced waist and a gently convex, narrowing toe, reminiscent of a sports car with a dynamic body line.

 

HO211 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Narrow in width and medium in arch, with a significantly shortened length. Ideal for men with a shoe size of 38 or less. The shortness of this last allows for taking a larger size or even two than usual - this way, we gain greater width at the ball of the foot and arch height without excessively lengthening the shoe. The toe shape is highly rounded and subtle.

 

HO184 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very gracious last with balanced proportions. It features more space at the ball of the foot, a medium-high instep, and a standard length. A nice rounded toe and subtle tapering fit well with many types of shoes. Last 184 is perfect for medium or slightly wider feet with a medium arch.

 

 

HO180 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last of medium width and fairly high instep. Note the length, which is even half a size larger than other lasts. The toe shape is slender and visually elongates the shoe's shape significantly. Suitable for those who like dynamic shoe shapes or want to visually lengthen their feet (tall person with small feet).

HO130 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thick and very long last with a slightly slimmed-down toe and medium-high instep. Last 130 is so large that we recommend choosing a size even 1.5 sizes smaller than usual. It's often used for sewing brogues and loafers.

 

 

HO8 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A thick and short last with a high instep. It's most commonly used in various types of Tassel Loafers. It works best for short but wide feet with a higher arch. Those with slender feet should avoid last HO8 because the foot won't rest on the arch, causing it to slide forward, and the toes will rub against the toe of the shoe while the heel remains unstable.

HO240 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most commonly used for stitching Belgian Loafers. Characterized by considerable width, a short toe, and a low toe box profile, often making it challenging to fit properly. The instep is higher and shifted closer to the front - l

 

HO915/N015 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last with a very dynamic shape. Slightly longer with a curved toe and relatively lower instep. The width is medium. Shoes made on this last look elegant and neat. It's ideal for slender feet with a lower instep.

 

HO254 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wide across the midfoot, elongated, and with a standard instep height. Size-wise, it's very similar to last 156, but the toe box is decidedly sharper and lower. It pairs well with lightweight summer loafers.

 

 

 

 

HO207 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most commonly used for stitching boots in our fall/winter collections. It's decidedly wide but short, so special attention should be paid to getting the length right. Not suitable for slim and long feet. The rounded toe shape pairs well with chunky brogue boots, pebbled leather, and wider-welted rubber soles.

N89 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last that occasionally appears in limited editions of boots. Medium width, short length, and a heavily shifted forefoot create a plump and subtle profile. Last N89 suits standard or slightly shorter feet with greater robustness. As always with shortened toe boxes - ensure proper length for toe comfort.

 

HO234 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last with well-balanced proportions. Slightly wider and of standard length. When selecting a size, it's very similar to last 184 in its characteristics.

HO132 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last 132 is long and very robust, with a higher instep. The toe has a beautiful almond shape, resulting in shoes made on this last always appearing subtle and restrained. Due to its width and extra length, we recommend going down half a size compared to other lasts.

 

 

 

CARLOS SANTOS

Z401 Last 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Z401 Last is one of the most gracious and versatile lasts from the Carlos Santos factory. It's wider across the midfoot, with a high instep and subtly elongated. A carved waist and graceful toe shape give it an incredibly dynamic silhouette.

Z397 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Z397 Last is decidedly wide with a high instep. The length is shortened, and the toe shape is rounded and subtle. It's ideal for shoes that are meant to look slightly bulkier, such as derbies on a rubber sole.

Z317 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Designed with comfort in mind, as it's mainly used for stitching sports shoe models. A high instep, wide midfoot, and short toe provide comfort while still maintaining an elegant and subtle shape.

Z234 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last on which Carlos Santos stitches its famous mountaineer-inspired boots from the 1930s. Suitable width and high instep provide comfort, while elongated and beveled toes give a dynamic shape and balance well with the extended quarters of the 9098 model.

Z387 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last on which Carlos Santos stitches oxfords in the highest Handgrade line. A very dynamic shape with sharply defined sidewalls and an elongated toe with a slightly angular hump. The waist is heavily carved. Ideal for slim feet with a low or medium instep.

437 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very similar to the Z397 last, meaning it's wide and short. Looks great when used for stitching bulky derbies or boots.

1944 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1944 Last is intended for Tassel Loafers. Wide midfoot, high instep, and a shorter, rounded toe are perfect for subtle loafers with a low-set tongue. Suitable for feet with a higher instep.

Z 234/R2S Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A last with medium width and instep. The profile is elegant and subtle, but compared to the Z401 last, the waist is less pronounced, and the toe is shorter and rounder.

Z 445 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moderately wide with a medium instep and length. A slightly beveled toe gives the last a dynamic character. Shoes made on this form have a lower profile and a slender waist, giving lightness to the entire silhouette.

 

PARTIGIANI BLAKE / BOLOGNA

Alex Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alex Last is decidedly wide across the midfoot and elongated, but the toe has a subtle shape. The instep is lower, ensuring that loafers made on this last hold the heel well. Due to its width and increased length, we recommend choosing a size up to 1.5 smaller than usual. It's intended for feet with a lower instep.

Piper Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Piper Last was specially created for slip-on Belgian Loafers. It's quite wide and slightly elongated, with a low-profile toe. The instep is also lower and well-matched.

Harry Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Harry Last is wide across the midfoot and high in the instep. The length is standard or slightly shorter, with a subtle rounded toe shape. Various types of summer loafers are most commonly stitched on the Harry last. The comfortable shape combined with Blake or Bologna stitching provides incredible comfort even on the hottest days.

 

 

Boris Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boris Last is quite wide and significantly shorter. The shape is very sporty and informal, so it's most commonly used for sneakers, boat shoes, or loafers on a rubber sport sole.

944 Last

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

944 Last has a medium width midfoot and a relatively low instep. The length is standard, but the toe significantly narrows, with a low profile and a strongly dynamic shape. Due to the described characteristics, we recommend increasing the size by half. The last is intended for feet with a lower instep.

PARTIGIANI GOODYEAR WELTED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All Partigiani shoe models sewn using the Goodyear Welted method are based on the same last, 22190, which is decidedly wide across the midfoot. The instep is high, and the length is standard. The toe shape is very subtle and rounded, with a slight hump. When creating a last dedicated to our brand's shoes, we aimed for an elegant and timeless shape that would look great both as a black oxford and a suede ankle boot. It's suitable for wider feet with a high instep.